The doors on the Power Wagon were straight and relatively rust free. The only exception were pin holes at the bottoms of both doors. The door check arms were removed from each door. Then the hinge pins were knocked out using a drift and a big hammer. The upper pin on the driver's door is threaded on the bottom to allow the mirror bracket to be attached to the top hinge. After the pins are removed the doors can be lifted out.

The next step was to remove the internal working parts from the doors. Not having ever done this before, I used Dave Butler's Power Wagon Body and Sheetmetal manual as a guide. The manual has good instructions and detailed pictures for removal and installation of most sheetmetal on these trucks. You can get a copy from Vintage Power Wagons.

The door and window handles were removed, and the inside door covers were taken off. Removal of the large window glass and window regulator went smooth, the vent windows were tricky because I was careful about not wanting to bend any of the metal parts. The doors were sandblasted, filled primed and painted. One thing to mention about the inside panels that cover the door mechanism, be careful when sandblasting, mine started to curl like potato chips, but they turned out OK.

The glass was taken out of the metal frames. I laid the glass on a block of wood, and while standing on the glass I lightly tapped against the metal frame with another block to push the frame off the glass. Since the glass was cracked, I'm replacing it with the same green tinted glass used in the windshield.

At this point I have one door back on the truck with the outside door handle and mechanism in place. The next step is to adjust it so it closes and opens a little easier. The door lock was removed from the passenger door and taken to a local locksmith, who changed the cylinder so the door could be unlocked with the ignition key -Price $8.00. I also could not find another threaded hinge pin for attaching a mirror bracket to the passenger door. The pins are 9/32". I ended up machining a piece of 9/32" drill rod. and threading 1/4-20 threads on each end. I intend to weld a nut on top, grind it smooth, and use that for a pin.

The driver's door was a major pain to adjust. The door was rubbing in the back corner and above the door latch. After about two hours of bending hinges, using wood blocks to try to bend the door in and out, and "forming" the cab and door metal, the door closed and opened without binding or rubbing. This was all trial and error. The horizontal line below the window will not match up with the cab line though. Also the door latch was riding too high above the striker to latch without being able to be pulled open. The plan now is to machine a new striker.

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